Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Spindles! Great Western Alpaca Show! Spinning Cotton! OhMy!

I've always heard that small spindles which spin very fast are good for spinning cotton, so I decided to give it a try. Here you see me spinning a cotton ball - just a regular old cotton ball out of a bag of cotton balls from my bathroom closet. I've lost my mind, it's assured.

But, it was quite fun!

I made this spindle as part of my current project - I made a whole bunch of them, actually. I'm going to try to sell them at GWAS - the Great Western Alpaca Show. Actually, the booths will be part of the Fiber Fiesta, which is upstairs from the GWAS. Look for me, and my tiny spindles, at the Eyedazzler Alpaca booth
Here are the ones I’ve made so far – there are a couple more in the works. I’m going to ask a rock-expert-friend to identify the stone ones – it’ll be fun to know the names of the stones.
This is the one I used to spin the cotton ball – it’s just fancy glass, I think, but the blue one below it is “something” – I’ll ask my friend, she’ll know. (The spindles will all have hooks - I took the photo before the hooks were added.)
Three glass versions – how I love the milky one, on the upper right; it seems to glow.
They look surreal from underneath, don’t they? Giant Spindles! Run for your life!

These little spindles are so much fun! They spin like crazy – very fast! They are pretty, fairly well balanced and best of all, they're completely convertible. They can be top whorls, bottom whorls, middle whorls, whatever you like, as the "jewel" slides up or down the shaft, but once you move it, it stays where you put it. I can put a notch into the jewel, if you like, but I prefer them without a notch.

Also - the spindle comes with free drop spindling lessons. Allie, the co-owner of EyeDazzler Alpacas, will have fiber to sell - lovely, beautiful, wonderfully prepared, alpaca fiber. Ahhhh.....

I’ll also have loads of toy wheel spindles for sale. These are the workhorses in my stable of spindles. I’ll have top whorls (shown on top) and bottom whorls… …in three sizes – 2 inch, 2.5 inch and 3 inch diameter wheels, all notched, all with brass hooks. You'll love 'em.
Also, you are most certainly invited to take a “test drive” so that we can be sure that the hook is adjusted exactly right for you. I just love these spindles – since the wheel has spokes, it puts the weight of the whorl at the outside - rim weighted - and the result is a nice, long, spin. They really work well. The smaller ones are nice and light, just right for lace weight spinning.

As a matter of fact, I’ll be teaching spindling all day long, just drop in. I’ve learned a new technique, and I’m thrilled to pieces. I’ve learned to Ply On the Fly – knowledge courtesy of a genius person, Tammy Rizzo. This is the smartest thing ever!!! You spin a length of yarn, ply it, wind it onto the spindle, spin another length, ply it, wind it onto the spindle, and so on. Do you get that? You spin AND ply, more or less at the same time.

Honestly, this bears repeating - -

You spin AND ply, more or less at the same time.

So, when you get to the end of your roving, you are all done. No plying step waiting for you. No trying to estimate how much over ply to insert in order to compensate for the fact that your spindle has been sitting there for a month, waiting for you to get back to it. None of that. I tell you, Tammy Rizzo is a pure genius, and this spinning technique is one to know. I’ll teach you.

Allie's booth will also feature knitting lessons (Hmmm... I wonder who is going to teach those? *blush* That would be... ummm... me...), crochet lessons, needle felting, wet felting, and I don’t know what else. All of the lessons will be free to those who purchase the kits which Allie will have available in her booth. There is no advance sign-up required for the knitting or spinning lessons, just show up and you can get started. Consult the link, scroll to the lower half, for information about the other classes, as they have set times.

This is what the knitting kits feature – Coffee Cuffs! These are small projects, each with a different technique to learn. The I-cord cuff (shown in brown – other colors available, too) is knitted with an I-cord cast on and I-cord cast off. You will learn how to graft the front end of the I-cord to its back end, which makes it seamless and beautiful and you will marvel at your knitting and grafting ability! The I-cord cast on and cast off are brilliant techniques with lots of other applications - once you know how, you’ll be I-cording everywhere; it's tremendously useful. The other Cuff is worked from the top down and it features a tubular cast on in the round – yes, in the round! There is no going back to sew up the cast on edge – when you are done, you are Done. This makes for a lovely edge, and what a great technique for cuff-down socks, mitten cuffs, sleeve cuffs, hats, and other applications. It’s fairly easy, once you get the idea.
If you are interested in knitting lessons, then – Bring Your Needles, all of them! Both projects can be worked on dpns, if you like, or I can show you how to knit them on one circular needle – the Magic Loop – which some folks loathe, and others just LOVE. I’m one of those who love the technique, which is wonderful for socks, sleeves, hats – basically anything which is tubular. It also works for flat items such as doileys, shawls, and so forth. No more dpns for me! However, I completely understand the lure of dpns, and can teach the techniques with any tools that you like.

For the very beginner student, the cuffs can be worked in garter stitch as a straight band which is later sewn into a tubular shape. This would be a good project for a young child who wants to learn to knit. I’ll have some chunky yarn available, so if this interests you, then please bring your larger needles!

My teenaged daughter, Grace, will be there on Saturday, teaching knitting and crocheting. She’s developed a line of totally cute cases for cell phones, ipods, mp3 players, and sunglasses, in knit or crochet, and she’s working on a cute crochet scarf pattern. She’ll have some cases for sale, and will be teaching these classes on an on-going basis on Saturday afternoon. These are worked in “Punch,” a wonderful alpaca yarn in bright, fun colors. The techniques taught will include the Turkish cast on (wonderful for toe-up socks), the jogless jog, I-cord bindoff, picking up stitches in an already knitted item, and who knows what else Grace will come up with. Her classes are appropriate for everyone, but the projects are definitely aimed to the teenaged audience.
Some hook onto a belt - others have straps for wearing necklace-style, because, you know, you don't have a belt when you are in a swimsuit... just sayin'...
First Weekend in May - National Western Complex. The animals are downstairs, and the Fiber Fiesta is upstairs. Join us! I'll be there, all weekend. I can't wait!

Friday, March 21, 2008

Best Stretchy Cast OFF ever!

This is a stretchy cast-off which is the exact match to the stretchy cast-on that I blogged about a year or so ago. By the way, there are many different ways to work that cast on - a friend of mine does it in such a way that she ends up with a lacey edging of a row of tiny loops. She rolls her needles in the opposite way that I do, and she picks up the inside thumb strand, rather than the outside strand. It is really pretty! There are lots of variations – experiment and find your own.


If you want to see my past posts about the stretchy cast-on, then please click here for videos, http://rosemaryknits2.blogspot.com/2006/11/best-stretchy-cast-on-ever.html, and here for still pictures, http://rosemaryknits2.blogspot.com/2006/11/best-stretchy-cast-on-ever-continued.html
This is a wonderfully useful cast-on to know. I’m happy to have it in my arsenal of tricks.

This sewn cast-off is not terribly difficult - if you want a REALLY clear understanding of the structure of the cast-on, and the cast-off, then I recommend that you do just what I did – cast-on with two different colors of yarn and then just study it. Watch what is happening as you do the cast-on. Pay attention to what the yarn is doing every step of the way. After you have an understanding of it, then knit a bit with a third color of yarn. You'll say, "Oh, NOW I get it."

Here is a photo of the cast-on --- the cast-on edge is on the top in this photo - with three different colors of yarn. Lavender and white are the actual cast-on stitches, and the green is the knitting which followed. Study these photos carefully and see if you can tell how to work a matching cast-off.





Here, you can see my sewn cast-off in progress. What follows are a million photos of how you can do it, too. Lots of cast-off-seamstresses are worried about taking the stitches off of the needle for the sewing up process, so I'll show it twice - first with the stitch being sewn while still on the needle, and far below, with the stitch taken off of the needle.
Your first step (photo above) is to go through the left most stitch on the right hand needle coming from the back through to the front of the stitch. This step isn't shown in action, but is indicated by the white yarn coming out of the front of the stitch. The stitch is a little bit twisted, so you'll just have to take my word for it - the white yarn has gone in through the back of the stitch and is coming out through the front of it.

Your next step (photo below) is to stick your tapestry needle into the front of the next stitch on the right.
Next, through the first stitch, from the back of the stitch -
Pull the yarn, but not too tightly. Match the tension in the cast-on edge. Note how the yarn is coming from below the loop just sewn? Another way of saying this is to be sure that the yarn is emerging from outside of the loop. If it is above the loop, then it will end up inside of the loop, when the loop is pulled snug. Get it?
Almost done. One more step to go...
Now, go through the knit stitch from the back of the stitch, to the front.
Pull it snug, but not tight.
Done.
Now, you can take this stitch off of the needle.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Below, the same procedure, but the stitch being worked has been removed from the needle.




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

(The reason that the knitting needle has a black line on it is because I was teaching a friend how to Magic Loop and she kept getting mixed up. When knitting with the magic loop method, the needle in the right hand is *always* the right hand needle, so I put a mark on the needle in her right hand, so she'd get it.)

This cast-off can be used for articles worked in the round, such as sock cuffs, mitten cuffs and the like, just be sure to sew the last stitch to the first stitch. Lots of knitters cast-off all of their stitches and omit this last step, and it leaves a notch which is annoying and unfinished. This cast-off is the match to the cast-on – very stretchy, but it bounces back quite nicely.

I strongly suggest that you swatch to see how you like it. Also, swatch so that you are casting-off with the right side facing you, and make another swatch where you are casting-off with the wrong side facing you – both are valid techniques, and each one looks a little different from the other, but it makes no difference to the stretchyness. As with most knitting, it will look better after washing and blocking.

Enjoy!

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Even MORE needle felting!

I'm so thrilled with my new trick of needle felting-finishing knitted items, I can't contain myself, I have to tell you all about it.

Here, you can see me needle felting the yarn-end into the brim of a knitted hat. It is worked from the brim to the top - just a plain jane rolled brim. I never know what to do with the tail because a rolled brim doesn't have a right side and a wrong side - both sides are "right side" sides.

In the past, I've worked the tail up into the crown of the hat, but that isn't necessary any more, not since I've figured out this needle felting trick.


With the needle in place, so you can see where the felted bit is located - -
Needle removed - - Gone! This hat is knitted out of Encore, a really nice wool blend. My daughter just loves these hats.

In the series of photos, below, you can see me needle felting a wayward thrum back into place

Before the needle - - see how it pokes out?

During the process - -

After. How nice.
You know, you can do the same thing with pulls or snags - just work the snag to the wrong side of the item and felt it in place.

I'm obsessed.


In order to work with the pokey needles on a mitten, without poking myself or needle felting the mitten closed, I stuffed it with the bags from my onions and oranges.






Unless you give this a try, you'll have no idea how handy this method is for finishing your knitting. Are you put off by the imagined cost of needle-felting needles? Have you checked the price? My LYS sells them for less than a dollar a piece, and for finishing projects, you'll only need one, or two if you should choose to strap them together. These little doozeys are REALLY inexpensive. Try it!

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Needle Reassignment Surgery

A while back, I posted a short "teaser" which one of my commenters referred to as "needle reassignment surgery," and I think that this is terribly clever, so this is the term I will use. LOL.

I turned Balenes and Boye interchangeables into circular needles, and some skewers and pick up sticks into straights - and you can, too! It's really quite easy.

First, have a look at my article, to get an understanding of how it all goes together.

What I'm doing here is exactly the same thing, only with plastic Balenes instead of wooden dowels. MUCH to my surprise, it's extremely easy to drill into plastic needles - MUCH easier than drilling into wood. First, plastic is so much softer than wood, and it has no grain. When drilling into wood, the drill bit seems to follow the grain of the wood, and sometimes, come out of the side of the needle, as indicated in the article.

Step one - saw off one pointy end of one of the Balene double points.


Next, drill into the end of the needle - just like you did with the wooden ones, but look how much fun it is to drill into plastic! Twirlies!!!Because I think that these twirlies are just too cute, I'll treat you to another photo, lol. Notice a very important point - twirlies means NO sawdust! A very clean activity! (I made my next pair in the house, at the dining room table...)

Since it is so easy to do, just drill the whole length of the drill bit.



Here is what you end up with - a deep hole.


Next, shape the shoulders of the "hole" and proceed as in the article with notching the Weed Whacker Filament and gluing it into the hole and wrapping with plumber's tape and knitting.
These needles are wonderful - - Very flexible, very nice. These are a Balene size 3. Oh - wait! I had to reshape the tips - see - On top is the original shape, and below it is the reshaped. I just used my Revlon nail file - it only took a few seconds. I really hated the original shape - those little shoulders were annoying. Small changes can make big differences!
One point - when I made mine, I used the same glue that I always use - the Locktite Household Adhesive - and it didn't dry! Now that I think about it, it makes perfect sense - plastic weed whacker filament inside of a plastic hole is just the same as sealing it in plastic, right? But, of course, this didn't occur to me at the time, I just thought that I was being my regular old clever self, lol. When did I make this discovery, you ask? When I was on the road, on our trip to Moab, and of *course* I didn't have any other needles. Sigh. So, I just wrapped the plumber's tape onto the join, really really really tightly, and hoped for the best. Since hoping for the best nearly always worked, it worked for me and while it was decidedly weird to knit with needles which are swiveling around on the cables, it all held together and I knitted a perfectly decent pair of mittens and I didn't even cry or anything, lol.

Now that I've successfully made these circs out of plastic dpns, I'm going to do some plastic surgery (get it? get it?) on a batch of circs which my mom gave me. They are her old ones and they are lovely needles with awful cables and awful joins. Besides, they are *all* way too short for magic loop, so I'm going to repair the whole lot of them.

Now, on to an experiment which didn't work out as well as I had hoped. I've used these for many projects, most recently for knitting a darling little alpaca hat for my dh to wear under his bike helmet, and while they... knit... they annoy me. See, I thought I was being all smart and all and I ground down the join end of the needle, but all this did was to provide a place for the smooth finish to chip off and get all pokey and scratchy.

This was a pair of needles which someone, somewhere along the line, gave to me. They were new in the package - Boye interchangeables - size 2 - no cables, just the needles. So, I chopped off a bit of weed whacker filament, glued it in, and ground down the straight sides to make a smoother join. But, like I said, it isn't completely satisfactory as the finish is now flaking off and poking my yarn and me. Were I to do it again, I'd leave the straight sides as they are, and do a little sculpting with the pipe tape. Also, the pipe tape doesn't adhere very well to the metal, so I'll probably not repeat this experiment. That is, until someone gives me another pair of Boye interchangeables...

See how shallow the hole is? This doesn't inspire confidence. But, I have to say that they've knitted just fine, I'm simply whining.

See how little difference there is between the diameter of the cable and the needle? I should have left well enough alone... You can see little bits of glue in the area of the join. I learned my lesson with the plastic needles, so I used some sort of odd-ball plastic epoxy on these. It worked out just fine.

On rare occasions, I like to use straight needles - always short ones. Here, you see my little collection.

From top to bottom, roughly left to right, you can see a pair of needles which I made out of culinary skewers, a pair of Britanny Birch dpns - reassigned (with a lone Balene in between), a pair of pickup sticks - reassigned, and more culinary skewers. Missing are my most faves, a particularly short pair of wooden dowel needles which are loaned out to a friend. I made the skewers and the dowel pairs in order to knit the blue alpaca neckwarmer which is way down below.

The pickup sticks make great needles! Here are two different boxes, one from the dollar store and one from the Goodwill. The box on top are filled with perfect number 2 needles, which I used, once upon a time, to begin my Heere Be Dragone shawl (must get back to it...) and the box on the bottom holds perfect number 3's. No, the Goodwill didn't mark the box, I did, lol.
I tied the stoppers onto the needles with this "yarn" and it works perfectly. It's way too cute, too - a nice, bright greenish yellow.
Making needles out of dowels is easy - just do it. You can finish them or not, you decide. The skewers, on the other hand, are a pain in the neck. I ended up soaking them in Formby's oil finish, then letting them dry, then steelwooling them and yes, they came out FANTASTIC, and are wonderful to use, but way too labor intensive for me. I had to do this because the skewers are quite splintery, and unusable in their au naturale form.

Next up - more adventures with needle-felted finishing techniques!

Friday, January 18, 2008

Ugly Scarf and its Cute Sister

You know.... maybe Annette's right, maybe this is the butt-ugliest scarf ever knitted... but I tell you, it was great fun to knit! A little of this, a little of that, all garter stitch and with that new favorite finishing technique - needle felting - Well, I like it. The Kid for whom it was knitted likes it too, according to the Kid's mother, and so I'm happy with the whole project. Easy.... relaxing.... fun textures.... fun colors.... a very enjoyable project from start to finish.
This was knitted for the Kid's Older sister, and while it came out cute, really cute, it was a complete pain in the ass to knit and I'll never knit another one as long as I live because I nearly lost my mind. However, should you be silly enough to knit one, here's how - cast on 250 with a size 5 knit pick set which are mounted on 60 inch cables with buttons. What I mean is that each needle should be on it's own, separate cable with a button on the end of the cable - you know, super long "flex needles."

I used the cable cast on with great success, and I highly recommend it for this project. You'll need the strength that this particular cast on provides.
So, you cast on, then turn and knit back, increasing one stitch for every stitch knitted. I did the EZ backwards e increase. Turn, purl all the way back across. Turn and knit, increasing one for each knitted stitch, purl back, another increase row, purl back, knit without increasing, purl back, then cast off right before you set your hair on fire and run down the street screaming.

I did the regular old cast off where you knit two stitches, then pass the first one over the second one, knit, pass, and etc, with one little change - you know how you are always scolded to "cast off loosely?" Well, in this case, cast off TIGHTLY, and it will make the edge roll even more than usual which adds to the cuteness of the whole thing.

So, you begin with 250, and immediately increase to 500. Purl 500 stitches. Knit, increasing to 1000, purl 1000. Knit, increasing to 2000, purl 2000. Knit 2000, purl 2000, cast off 2000 stitches and ask yourself was it worth it??? All the while, you are fighting with the stupid thing because the "spine" is soooooooo much shorter than the outer rows... grrrr. I've never come so close to sticking my needles in my eyes out of desperation in my whole knitterly life!!!

Anyway, it did indeed come out very cute. It reminds me of lettuce, lol.

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Needle Felted Finishing technique - try it!

As you know, I really like knitting with alpaca. Just love it. Alpaca has many many fine qualities which make it the superlative knitting yarn, but for one teensy little drawback - alpaca is very slippery. This is what makes it have such a wonderful "hand" but it makes it difficult when it comes to finishing your project, as the woven-in-tails don't stay put. Of course, when they worm their way out, they always poke out to the right side, don't they? So... I decided to figure this out once and for all.

This is what I came up with. Do you see my yarn tail? Look really closely on the purl part of the k2p2 rib in Grace's Dalmatian mittens. I've turned the cuff back just a bit, because, of course, she's hidden the tail on the inside of the cuff. See it?

Here is the worked-in-tail on another pair of alpaca mittens. Look at the ridge which runs right through the center of the photo. See it?
Here is the inside of a pair of striped alpaca thrummed mittens. Hooo wee, what a lot of tails were in *this* pair of mittens, with all of those stripes. Do you see all of the tails? Look closely...
Here, I've pricked one out with the knitting needle - see it now?
I've solved my "ends" problem very simply - I've needle felted in the ends! Soooooo simple, soooooooo effective. Really - try it!

Here is a quick demonstration - I'm showing you on a worked-in-end which has already been worked-in, but you can figure out the details. First, you weave the tail in over a few stitches in your favorite way - I generally duplicate stitch if it's thin yarn - and then you lay the yarn across a stitch which you think will be suitable for this method - a rib works well, or a purl bump.

Then, just poke away with your needle felting needle.
Just poke poke poke, from one direction, then from the other, until the yarn begins to snag the yarn below it. This particular alpaca yarn is sooooo slick that it was hard to get it to "start" but once the felting process began, then it sort of snowballed. This whole process takes something like 10-15 seconds, so I'm not talking about all afternoon here, lol.

Once the yarn began to felt to the yarn below, I clipped the yarn and continued to needle felt on the clipped end, and it felted beautifully. As you can see, in the photo above, I kept my needle felting action completely on the wrong side of the mitten. In other words, I didn't poke through from one side of the mitten (wrong side) to the other side (right side) but kept the needle on the wrong side at all times. In this way, the right side looks like perfectly plain knitting with none of the "rats nest" appearance that you can see on the wrong side.
It leaves a soft little tangled and matted area which is not the least bit "lumpy," but just a little felted area. It holds the ends down VERY nicely! The ends are secured, and all is right in the world.

Now, I use it on *ALL* of my knitting. I just finished two acrylic scarves and I successfully needle felted the ends on those too. I couldn't believe it, but they felted just great! One was a scrap scarf - great way to use up stash, even if my friend, Annette, says that this is the ugliest piece of knitting that she's ever seen in her whole entire life - I had fun knitting it just the same. It's for a KID and I hope that this kid likes it, even if Annette has no taste whatsoever...

I also finished a superwash merino scarf, and needle felted the tails (even though superwash isn't supposed to felt!), and another scarf out of a wool/silk blend, and it felted beautifully, too. The photos at the start of this post are on the insides of the mittens, so I really didn't pay much attention to the "beauty" of the needle felted business, but with scarves, of course, both sides have to look nice. It is really pretty easy to do it neatly and prettily and in such a way that the felted down end doesn't show AT ALL. I'm telling you - try it, you'll like it!

Anyway, I digress.

Below, you can see one needle felting needle, and below that, you can see two of them, duct taped together. Actually, I always use them this way - two of them, taped together. Twice the felting power, half the time, and all that.

See those little barbs along the length of the needle? (Click the photo for a larger version) You will probably, at some point, jab yourself, but let me tell you - you'll only do it ONCE. It hurts more than you could ever dream possible, so you are not likely to repeat that little trick.

My friend, Allie, taught me a much better way of holding two needle felting needles together - you clip a short bit (1 inch? 1.5 inch?) of one of those double, plastic, coffee shop coffee stirrers - and you stick one needle down one side, and the other needle down the other side. I tried it, and it works beautifully. Since the needles are fatter than the coffee stirrer, you really have to jam them down in there, but once they are stuck in there, they are stuck for the duration.


It also keeps the needles parallel so you don't get the crossed tips as you see in the photo.

If you can't find felting needles in your area, then contact my LYS at Colorado Fiber Arts and they'll fix you up with what you need. (You'll also see that I'm teaching two classes - thrummed mittens and swirly blanket/shawl, but I'm not "named" as the teacher.)

Like I said, I've used this technique on alpaca and it works great. I've used it on pure, unadulterated acrylic (Simply Soft, Home Spun, Eyelash, Red Heart, and more!) and shock of all shocks, but it works with that, too. I still can't believe that I was able to felt acrylic, but I did.

Years ago, when I began knitting, and we didn't have a wonderful local yarn store, and I had to do all of my yarn shopping at big box stores, and acrylic was all I could find, I used to hand sew the ends down. Yup - with a bit of sewing thread. That Simply Soft is actually pretty decent acrylic yarn, but the ends just don't stay put. One of my first "big projects" was a tropical colored poncho for my daughter, Emma. I sewed down each and every one of 10 million yarn tails and nearly lost my mind. How I wish I had learned this little trick back then!

Now, I know the secret to well-behaved yarn ends, and you do, too!

Enjoy!

Monday, December 24, 2007

Tying a knitted beaded scarf

I knitted a beaded scarf for my mother, and one for her friend. These are *all* the rage at my local knitting store, Colorado Fiber Arts. They are easy to make and they really come out very nice. There is something terribly glamorous and dramatic about all of those beads. It gives the scarf some real heft. If you are interested, you can contact my knitting store's owner, Emily, and see about mail-ordering a kit for yourself.

Emily is so smart - she taught me this method of tying the scarves. Clever, eh?

Isn't it nice?

A closer look.

Here's how - it's super easy to do - -

First, you fold the scarf in half, and put it around your neck. Then, you pull one end through from left to right...
...then you pull the other end through the loop from right to left.
Tug on the ends to tighten it up a little bit.

Aim the "knot" towards one shoulder, and there you go!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

This is a very quick knit, and super easy as it's 100% garter stitch. The way this scarf is made, you knit from one end to the middle, then stop and set it aside, while you knit the other half. Then, you join the two halves in the middle.

I made a couple of changes - - on the scarf pictured above, I made the "tails" much larger to exagerate the fish-tail look, and I really like the effect. Also, instead of the join recommended in the pattern, I grafted it instead and I was thrilled with the outcome.

This how I grafted it - - when I was finished with the first half, I dropped the working yarn and picked up some similar gauge waste yarn and knitted about 5 ridges (10 rows) of garter stitch. Then I bound off and set it aside.

I knitted the second half and stopped with 8 beads* (see note below) left to spare, then knitted 5 ridges of garter stitch in waste yarn, and bound off.

Now, I held the two halves together in the middle, and following the general idea of Ms. Neatby's "sock toe chimney" advice, I grafted to two halves together. It worked so well - you can just oh so barely tell where the join is, and this is only because, architecturally speaking, the scarf is not the exact same from either end, and the rows of beads don't line up exactly perfectly, but almost perfectly. It's one of those things that *no one* would ever notice. I'd show you how it looks but I didn't think to photograph the join before I sent the scarves off. Silly me. They really did come out very nice.

When grafting, you'll take all of the beads off of the yarn which you use for grafting, and thread them on when it is time to place a bead. Due to the problem mentioned above, you will need to place a bead on the back side of the scarf and one on the front side in the very next stitch. This might not be readily apparant, but it will make sense when you are doing the grafting.

Weave in all ends and you are done!

Enjoy!

*The truth is that I didn't stop with 8 beads left to spare, I stopped with ***4*** beads left over because this is what I thought I needed. I was wrong... Until I had the project in my hands, I didn't realize that I would be placing beads on the front and the back of the scarf, I was planning on only needing them for the front. Sigh. So, I went on a mad bead scramble which went something like this, "YIPPEE, there's one behind the sofa!" "Yeah, there is still a bead in the pocket of my jeans!" "Hooray - there's one in the bottom of my knitting bag!" "Let's see... where did I step on that bead in my bare feet.... oh yeah, in the kitchen... Oh Glory Day, HERE IT IS!!! Yep, that's about how it was. I was in a huge panic, but I found them all! I found another one just this morning under the rug that my knitting rocker sits on. See, I had a minor bead stringing accident...

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Grace's Dalmatian Mittens

My Grace is now a professional knitter! Look at the mittens she knitted for a friend who has an alpaca farm and a farm store - Red Creek Ranch Alpacas
- aren't these too cute! They are knitted out of a yarn which is a mixture of alpaca and soy silk, and they have black thrums from one of the black alpacas at Eyedazzler alpacas.

Grace is working on another pair which are a khaki color with beige spots. I can't wait to see how those turn out!

The Blonders sell all sorts of hand knitted alpaca items - why not pay them a visit and see what they have in their store?

(If you want to know more about these mittens, then please click HERE and HERE.)

Thursday, December 06, 2007

I won! I can't believe it!

I entered a few things in the Alpaca Breeders of the Rockies Fiber Festival. What fun! I don't think that there were many entries because, looky here - I won 5 rosettes! I entered two skeins of yarn and they each won an award - first place on my brown gossamer weight and second place on the white 3 ply. The two skeins tied for the People's Choice award. I can't believe it. This brown yarn was spun from fleece,graciously provided by The Peruvian Mountain Valley Girl... and the white fleece was grown on the back of Dazzler's Peruvian Gillian...


... and they both live at Eyedazzler Alpacas, up in Westcliffe.

I also entered a pair of my thrummed mittens and they won first and a people's choice as well.

The thrums were made from Mountain Valley Girl's fleece, and yarn from Colorado Fiber Arts - it's wonderful yarn!Each People's Choice Award comes with a free subscription to any magazine that Interweave Press publishes, so I think that I'll get Interweave Knits and Spin-off.

There is another Alpaca Fiber competetion in May - I have a lovely knot of alpaca in a tweedy blend, just waiting to be spun. Hmmm... I have a lovely hank of black lace weight waiting to be knitted into something... decisions, decisions, decisions...

Tuesday, December 04, 2007

GRRRRR

Oh, for goodness sakes! A whole bunch of my blog photos have gone missing - HOW? WHY? WHEN?

So... I'm busily getting them back online.... what a bother!

On the whole, I've been nothing but completely and totally thrilled with my humble little blog on this delightful service, blogger.com....but...today....I'm a little peeved.

Soon remedied, so please check back soon.

Thanks!

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Blue Alpaca Neckwarmer and a Kitchener stitch lesson

Emma is modeling my blocked-to-death, indigo-dyed alpaca neckwarmer...


Here is the neck warmer, busily being blocked to death... I'm going to wet it again, and try to find a smaller something to block it on, and hope for the best.

Anyway, I copied an idea that I read on knitterguy's blog - he was knitting a shawl which had a knitted on border, and demonstrated how to do this. Here's the post - -

So, this is what I did and if I might say so, it worked out perfectly! Much more perfectly than I could ever have hoped or dreamed, in fact.


I casted on in a bit of grey-green yarn, and knitted a repeat and a half of "fir cone" which is knitted with the pattern rows on the right side and a purl row on the wrong side. I knitted the purl row in a bright purple, then began knitting with the intended yarn - blue alpaca. I knitted and knitted until I was just about out of yarn, making sure that I stopped at the same place as was the purple row.

Next, I threaded a darning needle with the end of the alpaca, and then it was a *very* simple matter to just follow the purple yarn's path on the way back.

OK... so.... it wasn't all that simple, but it was "doable" even if it did take all of my powers of concentration.

In the photo above, you can see that my blue yarn is following the path of the purple yarn, then on the way "back," it will go back through *two* loops of the blue, just as the purple yarn is going through two loops of the green. Get it? In this way, I've just kitchenered a k2tog.

Try it with some scrap yarn - you will be surprised.

In the photo below, you can faintly see the purple yarn behind the blue. At the beginning of the row, I would follow the purple for a couple of stitches, and then take out the purple, then advance with the blue, retreat with the purple, and so on. This was a mistake! Leave the purple yarn alone until you are all done.

All done! Waiting to be tortured on a box...

Just look at this! You can't tell where the seam is. How cool is this?
You might have noticed something - I did my fir cone pattern just a little differently than usual, and I really like the effect. Instead of doing a double decrease, every other row as prescribed, I did a double decrease at the first, then I did a k2tog on *every* row, and I think that it came out really nice. I can post a chart if anyone is interested. Let me know.

You can do a similar trick for other kitchener needs. Somewhere on line is a post showing how to kitchener sock toes by knitting a "sock toe chimney" (Lucy Neatby is a pure genius - have you seen her sock knitting book? It's great!) and then following the stitches to do the toes. Right now, I'm knitting a scarf where you knit each half from the ends and then join it in the middle - I'm going to do it this way, too. Of course, the "knitting architecture" won't be exactly the same, since it will join two different directions coming together in the middle, but it will work out just fine. It is so so so much easier to knit in some waste yarn and then follow the trail of the waste yarn when kitchenering.

Try it!
Another kind of neckwarmer...

Saturday, November 03, 2007

Make your own Jewel Spindles, and Other Stuff

I know that you didn't come here today to see pix of my family, but we had SUCH fun snapping these, and I couldn't help myself, so scroll really fast.






Now, THIS is why you are here!

I got many requests to tell about the jewel spindles, so here goes. It's really fast and easy.

Overview and Description -
One day, I discovered a bead store in my town that I never knew existed, lol. I stopped in and saw this bin of these little jewel doughnuts and practically yelled out loud, “Spindle Whorls!” The ladies who run the store sort of looked at me… Anyway, I dug through the bin of “glass” ones and I dug through the bin of “jewel” ones and I selected 5 which I thought would suit my purposes. I purposefully selected 5 different sizes and weights and raced home to experiment.

When I was selecting, I had it in mind that the holes should be as close to perfectly centered as possible. At the time, I hadn’t ever made or used spindles made out of heavy little stones, and I didn’t know better. I passed up a turquoise one because it looked like the hole was too off-center. In retrospect, I’m not sure that it matters much, and next time I’m on that side of town, I’m going to drop in and see if that little turquoise one is still there. Now that I’ve made them I know that much of the balance comes from how you adjust the hook, and I’ve learned a little trick about winding the black rubber in the center – more on this later.

At first glance, the 5 which I selected might not look all that different, but they are *quite* different in weight. The smallest is clear glass with blue floaties in it, and it’s very lightweight and it spins like crazy - - really really FAST. It’s made a perfect lace weight spindle. It really zings along, but since it is so lightweight, it doesn’t zing for very long. It’s tremendously fun to use and really keeps me on my toes!

Moving left, the next one is a lace weight spindle as well. Nothing too noteworthy about it except that I used a too-large hook while constructing it, so I’ll certainly change out the spindle shaft at my earliest convenience. I couldn’t wait to get going with my spindle making experiment, and this was all I had at the time. Also, it was made on a chopstick instead of a skewer, so it’s quite a bit shorter and very lightweight. It’s glass too, and has a lovely translucence.

The next two came from the “jewel” bin, but they are actually just some sort of stone. Well, now that I think of it, aren’t all “jewels” just “stones?” These two are close to the same diameter, but the green one is *much* heavier. The brown one is an excellent spinner because it’s so thin at the center and thicker at the rim. It is close to flat from the center outwards to the edge, where it quickly flares out to form a rim – it is almost cup-shaped. Maybe you can see this in the photos? I’m not a huge fan of “brown” but I am a huge fan of this spindle – I selected this particular jewel for it’s shape, and it does indeed work very nicely – lightweight with good balance and good rim weighting for a long spin.

The green one is quite heavy and I use it as a support spindle – do you see how it’s shaft is much shorter than the other spindles? I really like this one, too. It fits right into a Parmesan cheese plastic jar, lol, which makes it so very easy to drop it into my backpack and away I go. In fact, this works extremely well – just drop it down in there, and if you want to put the lid on, just open the flap with the sprinkle holes, let the spindle shaft stick out of one of the holes and screw the lid on. It works!

Anyway, back to my green spindle - I can also use it as a drop – in fact, I alternate from support to drop with this little number. Of all of my jewel spindles, I like the looks of this one the best! I just love it!

Now, on to my last one – the pale green one on the right. I love the looks of this jewel, but it’s really kind of heavy for my tastes. I like to spin very fine yarn and this one is just a tad bit too heavy for that. It’s also kind of heavy to use as a support spindle, too. I’m keeping it on hand to use as a plying spindle, and also, I’m keeping it on hand just to look at, as I think that it is *very* pretty! If you look closely at it, you can see the lines where different slabs of stone have been glued together to make sort of a laminated thingie. Isn’t that cool?

Materials –
Jewel doughnuts - from the bead store.
Shish Kabob skewers – from the grocery store. These are nearly always nice and straight. You want straight for spindle shafts.
Chop sticks – from a lovely Chinese restaurant meal – have your friends save them, too. These are not always particularly straight. I save the not-so-straight ones for making knitting needles – straights or circs – because it doesn’t matter, but for spindles, you want straight.
Bicycle inner tube - from out in the garage, lol. If you don’t have bike inner tubes hanging around, then contact your local bike store and ask if they’ll save one for you, next time they change a tire. Or, just buy one – in any case, you want the kind which are the same thickness all the way around, not the kind which is thicker on the outer part of the tube, and thinner on the inner side. Also, you probably don’t want a tube which has been slimed. One innertube will keep you and 20 of your closest friends in spindles for the rest of your natural life.
Brass eye hooks – I found these at the hardware store. They are “National” brand and I purchased sizes 216 and 217 ½. The smaller one - the size 216 - is my fave, and from now on, I’ll only buy the smaller one, but both sizes are nice. The smaller ones are way more delicate, and likely to snap as you are screwing it into the shaft, but I just like a smaller hook. You want brass – you don’t want the silvery-colored ones as they are much thicker and impossible (for me) to reshape, as the metal is very hard.
Scissors - for cutting the innertube. Standard, household scissors work just fine.
Thumb Tack - for starting the eyehooks. Link to a picture is below.

Construction –
Cut across the innertube and then cut again so that now, you have a black rubber-band which is about ¼ inch wide. Now, cut across this so that you have a rectangle of rubber which is ¼ inch wide, and about 5 inches long (I’m guessing here). Wrap the rubber around the skewer and then try on the doughnut. You’ll get the jewel doughnut onto the rubber with a twisting motion – twist one way and it will work – twist the wrong way and the rubber will bunch up. Most likely, your doughnut hole (lol) is much too small for this amount of rubber, so nibble away at the rubber until you get it short enough that the jewel will twist onto it. You want for it to be on there snugly, but not so tight that you feel as though you are really *forcing*it on there.

Notice that as you wrap the rubber around the shaft, your rubber starts “here” and ends “there” and more than likely, these two aren’t 180 degrees away from each other. If your start and your finish are on the same side of the skewer, then your jewel won’t be dead centered on the skewer. See? This is why I think that the little turquoise jewel doughnut can be made to work – you can play with the centering and the balance in this way, and also by fiddling around with the hook (see below). You don’t need to get it perfectly right at the beginning – get the jewel doughnut onto the shaft, and you can fine tune it later.

You’ll notice that I made 2 hooked versions and 3 non-hooked versions. I made all 5 of these before I went to the hardware store, and all I had on hand were the two brass hooks. Actually, I had three, but I broke one.

Necessity is the mother of invention, and so... I made three bottom whorl no-hook drop spindles, and this caused me to learn how to use them! I’ve never used a bottom whorl before and I gleefully spun them off of my thigh, just like the top whorl ones. Later, I googled bottom whorls and all of the sites I visited stated, quite plainly, that one can’t spin off of the thigh with a bottom whorl. Why not? It works perfectly! I also had to learn how to do the half hitch knot at the end of the shaft, since I didn’t have a hook there, and this is a nuisance. Yes, after a bit, I got quite fast at it, and learned that little wrist flick thing, but it’s not my favorite method. I’m really happy that I’ve learned this new technique, but I’ll stick with top whorls with-a-hook since I can go so much faster.

I digress…
Place your jewel doughnut on it’s little rubber thingie close to the end of the skewer because the skewer will split when the hook is screwed in. There are a couple of reasons for this - first reason - I don't have a drill bit for this tiny of a screw, and second, you can't drill into the end of a shish kabob skewer - I've tried numerous times and have since given up trying.

Instead of drilling a hole, I get the eyehook started in this way - I take a thumbtack and stick it into the end of the skewer, as far into the wood as the "tack" part is long. Twist it in, and give it a few more turns to widen the hole a little bit. This is the kind of thumb tack that I used - thumb tack picture.

Then, I took out the thumb tack and screwed the hook into place. The screwing-in of the hook will cause the skewer to split, which is why I put the rubber right at the end of the skewer. I don't know why this split doesn't show up better in the pictures, but it is quite a split and the *rubber* is what is holding everything together.

In other words, if you wanted more of the skewer to stick up above the whorl, and you moved the rubber down the stick a ways, then the stick would split so badly that the hook wouldn't stay screwed in. Get it? This is why I have the rubber right up to the end.

Sometimes, the smaller diameter hook, the number 216s, won’t cause the skewer to split.

Adjusting the hook - Notice how I've reshaped the hooks? Easy to do with jewelry making, round jawed, or round nosed pliers. I like to use brass eyehooks - the smallest ones I can find - and straighten the hook all the way out. Then, I grab the very end of the dealie with the jaw of the pliers, and turn the hook. Then, I screw the hook into place and take a look. Next, I tilt the hook a little to one side - just a tiny bit to the side - sort of how you might cock your head to one side if you are in a flirty mood? Then, I screw it into the skewer and try spinning. I bend the hook this way and that until it spins nicely.

You can't bend the hook while it's in the skewer because the skewer is split, so you have to take it out, bend it, put it back, test it, and so on until you get it right. Once you figure out how YOU like your hook to rest, then you can get it fairly close to the goal from the start. Keep trying, you'll figure it out. If all of this has worked a too-large hole into your spindle shaft, you can either get a new kabob stick or put a dab of glue or epoxy into the hole.

I cock the hook to one side because the spun yarn comes out on one side of the hook, right? Since you want for the spun yarn to come out of the *middle* of the spindle shaft, you have to get the hook out of the way. You'll lean the hook more to the side for fatter yarn, and less for lace weight. If you get it right, you'll know it because the spindle will spin so still. I know that this doesn't make any sense, lol, but it's true! If it's off center, then it will bob and jerk, but once you hit it right, then.... ahhhhhhhhhh........ stillness while spinning....

Now that I’ve blathered on and on and on and on about making jewel spindles, let me tell you that my FAVORITE spindles are made from toy truck wheels, lol. These aren't nearly as pretty as the jewel ones, but Oh Me Oh My, what little spinning dynamos these are!!! They spin like crazy for a very long time. I use my jewel ones when I'm trying to show off, but I use these when I'm trying to actually spin, heh heh heh.
I found these at this web site, Lee Valley Tools. Great company, by the way. Pleasure to deal with, no affiliation and all that. These wheels are light weight, rim weighted, and balanced enough – you can make adjustments in the construction of the spindle

Now, the hole in the wheel is considerably smaller than the hole in the jewel, and as you can see, the whole rubber thing just isn't very aesthetically pleasing, because it got all mushed up, but you know what? It still spins like a champ!

What I've done on more recent wheel-spindles is to wrap Duck Tape (yes, google it, the proper name is DucK tape, not ducT tape, lol.) instead of rubber and then, wedge the wheel on. It stays on quite well, especially after you get the hook screwed in. When you screw in the hook, and the skewer splits, it pushes out sideways onto the interior of the truck wheel, and holds it on very tightly, you know, like a wedge or a shim. I have had absolutely no problems. In lots of ways, the duct tape is easier to use. I cut across the duct tape to make short strips and jimmy around with these until the wheel fits nicely. I wrap the tape just like I wrapped the rubber – around the shaft, at the end of the shaft.

The hole on the jewels is very "short" - you know, from the top to the bottom, so it doesn't hold very well onto the duck tape, but holds on quite well to the rubber. Conversely, the hole on the wheel is *quite* tall - almost 1/2 inch, so it's too much friction to try to squeeze it onto the rubber, but it slides nicely onto the tape. Experiment and find out your favorite way.

Another thing is that the black rubber just looks so very pretty with the jewels.
In the above photo, you'll notice that I've cut a notch into the wheel? I use a triangular file and grind grind grind until I get it deep enough to hold the yarn. Then, a quick pass with some fine sandpaper and I' m good to go.

You could finish these toy wheels with some furniture oil, if you like, but I just leave them plain.

I’ve used all 4 sizes of wheel that Lee Valley offers, and I like the two larger sizes the best. Try them all and see which ones you like best.

Make spindles!!! Spin!!!
I always like to see how others store their fibery stuff, so let me show you my system. Nothing fancy, just a plastic box with my spindles and some roving to work with. Since I'm often working with white alpaca and white merino, I try to keep them in their respective jars so that I can tell which one is which by looking.

Another idea - if I'm spinning on many different projects, I sometimes forget what I was doing on which spindle. I take a note card, and write whatever is necessary to cause me to remember, and then punch two holes into the card with a paper punch. Then, I thread this card onto the spindle shaft. This way, I can remember that I was spinning the white merino on the fold and the white alpaca from rolags because I don't *ever* remember what I was doing and I can't always tell by looking, either. It works beautifully.

Ready to go!

I don’t often want to take this big tote with me, away from home, so I generally pack my spinning in a plastic jar and drop the jar into my backpack. It’s perfectly OK for the end of the spindle to extend beyond the top of the jar, but by using the jar, it protects my hook, and protects the rest of my backpack from the hook. It also keeps the roving nice. I put the roving into the jar first, and then drop in the spindle. You’ll discover that you buy your mayonnaise and your peanut butter based on whether or not you can fit your spindle whorls through the mouth of the jar, lol. Those are Kraft Mayo jars in the tote box. They are quite handy!







Enjoy!